Friday, January 28, 2011

Good Costume


We'll do our Mystery Guest reveal tomorrow, darlings, but in the meantime...


A recent, marvelous post over at Poseidon's Underworld, detailing the costumes Edith Head created for the all-star Ross Hunter epic, Airport (1970), started us ruminating about the fabled, eight-time-Oscar-winning designer. During the early phase of her 42 year run at Paramount (1925-1967), the untrained Head was dwarfed by the staggeringly chic creations being turned out by head designers Howard Greer and, later, Travis Banton. When called upon, though, Head could supply the fireworks, as with the spectacular emerald sequined gown she designed for Mae West in She Done Him Wong (1933).

Mae West in She Done Him Wrong (1933, Paramount)
Designer: Edith Head

More often, though, Head took a practical, workman-like approach -- which, it must be admitted, gave many of the costumes she worked on an undated, timeless look. There was a minimum of adornment on her dresses and gowns, most of which were made in either neutrals or subdued tones. Her no-fuss ethic was in direct contrast with the fantastical, glamorous, almost otherworldly creations that other designers like Adrian (MGM), Orry-Kelly (Warners), René Hubert (Fox), Kalloch (Columbia), Walter Plunkett (RKO) and Paramount's Banton were turning out.

Joan Crawford in Dancing Lady (1933, MGM)
Designer: Adrian

Kay Francis in Mandalay (1934, Warner Bros.)
Designer: Orry-Kelly

Gloria Swanson in Indiscreet (1931, Fox)
Designer: René Hubert

Irene Dunne in The Awful Truth (1937, Columbia)
Designer: Kalloch

Lupe Velez in Strictly Dynamite (1934, RKO)
Designer: Walter Plunkett

Marlene Dietrich in Desire (1936)
Designer: Travis Banton

To be fair, during this period, Banton, as head designer, was in charge of the plum assignments, and therefore, the most important films and biggest stars. More often than not, little Edie was left to toil in B-unit productions like Jungle Princess (1936), Her Husband Lies (1937) and Dangerous to Know (1938).

Dorothy Lamour in Jungle Princess (1936, Paramount)
Designer: Edith Head

Gail Patrick in Her Husband Lies (1937, Paramount)
Designer: Edith Head

Anna May Wong in Dangerous to Know (1938, Paramount)
Designer: Edith Head

Whether it was due to the smaller budgets on these films, Head's own minimalist approach, or a combination of the two, these stills illustrate both the designer's career-long fondness for simple lines with a minimum of frills, and a certain uneasiness when pressed to do something more outré: the sequined gown for Dorothy Lamour seems sleazy, especially compared with the clean, uncluttered look she gave Gail Patrick and Anna May Wong (more successful was the sarong that Head designed for Lamour in the same film!). But Head was acutely aware of her own limitations, and, when she was made head designer after Banton left Paramount in 1938, Head took pains to ensure that she rarely stepped out of her self-imposed boundaries again. She also set to work at making herself a household name.


The dark glasses. The crisp white blouse. The tailored suit. The bangs and chignon. The look, adopted in the late 1930's, would remain in place for the rest of Edith Head's life. "I knew I could never be the greatest costume designer," she once remarked, "but I knew there was no reason I couldn't be the smartest." Brilliantly, she copyrighted and branded herself, making her image nearly as famous as the movie divas she designed for. What Head wasn't so brilliant at, was fashion. Let us be very clear here: we respect Ms. Head as a very talented costume designer. That was her job, and she not only did it tremendously well, but she took it very seriously. She conferred not just with the director and actors on creating looks for the characters, but also with the art director and set designers, to ensure perfect harmony of line and color in every scene. The idea was for the costume to enhance and compliment the scene and character, not to overpower for mere effect.


Consequently, many of Head's best-remembered costumes were worn by some of the most celebrated, tempestuous women in Hollywood -- precisely because it took enormous presence and strength of character to bring many of Head's designs to life. Do you recognize either of these rather drab, uninteresting gowns?



How about now? They are, of course, the iconic dresses worn by Bette Davis and Elizabeth Taylor, respectively, in All About Eve (1950) and A Place in the Sun (1951).

Bette Davis in All About Eve (1950, Twentieth Century Fox)
Designer: Edith Head

Elizabeth Taylor (with Montgomery Clift) in A Place in the Sun (1951, Paramount)
Designer: Edith Head

It could be said, then, that Edith Head's greatest strength was knowing exactly what would work for the actress at hand, and the character she was playing. The clothing itself wasn't the star of the scene: it became a seamless, almost subliminal part of it. Indeed, it's difficult to imagine Margo Channing tossing off her "Fasten your seat belts" sally without that brown satin dress; but seeing it on its own hardly conjures up such delicious glamour. The clothes may not make the woman, but in many cases in Head's career, they helped make the character.

Barbara Stanwyck in Ball of Fire (1941, RKO)
Designer: Edith Head

Perhaps Edith's greatest collaboration with a star was with Barbara Stanwyck. Stanwyck had a reputation among Hollywood designers as being difficult to fit; her long-waisted torso seemed to stymie them. The look Head perfected for Stanwyck -- wide waistbands, narrow backs -- gave Stanwyck a new identity, and the closest thing to a designer/star partnership (a la Adrian/Crawford, Banton/Dietrich) that the free-lancing, studio-hopping star would ever have. The two women remained close friends, with Head not only designing for Stanwyck's films, but also her personal wardrobe.



Barbara Stanwyck in The Lady Eve (1941, Paramount) and Ball of Fire (1941, RKO)
Designer: Edith Head

That Head and Stanwyck got on famously was no fluke; Edith Head was trusted and beloved by almost every actress she worked with. She not only knew how to accentuate and camouflage as needed (as in Stanwyck's case), she also knew better than to spill gossip about her clients' private lives or, worse, their figure flaws to the press. Edith may have lacked the talent of a true couturier, but she could very well have been a diplomat.

Edith Head and Gloria Swanson, in costume for Sunset Blvd. (1950, Paramount)
Designer: Edith Head

There were, of course, a few bumps along the way. Most famously, as Paramount's head designer, she refused to allow young French designer Hubert de Givenchy's name to be included in the credits of Sabrina (1954) -- in spite of the fact that he had designed all of the haute couture gowns for the film's star, Audrey Hepburn, at Hepburn's request. Adding insult to injury, Head won an Oscar for the film (her second for a Hepburn picture; she had won the previous year for Roman Holiday)! To Head's credit, she did thank Givenchy in her acceptance speech for his "contributions." History almost repeated itself three years later, when Givenchy designed the spectacular couture gowns for Hepburn in Funny Face (1957), while Head was relegated to Kay Thompson's gray suits and the sad-sack outfits worn by Hepburn prior to her transformation from duckling to swan. This time, however, Givenchy rightly demanded, and received, screen credit.

Audrey Hepburn in Roman Holiday (1953, Paramount)
Designer: Edith Head

Audrey Hepburn in Funny Face (1957, Paramount)
Designer: Hubert de Givenchy

Her ambitions to do high fashion designs for Audrey Hepburn thwarted, Head found her 1950's muse in Hepburn's sleek blonde counterpart, Grace Kelly. For the future princess, Head designed some of her loveliest, most fashion-forward creations, particularly for Rear Window (1954) and To Catch a Thief (1955). These two films also cemented a long, fruitful relationship with Alfred Hitchcock, who was not only impressed by how Head's designs looked on his treasured cool blondes (Head would also dress Kim Novak for Vertigo [1958] and Tippi Hedren for The Birds [1963]), but how effectively they complimented his vision and direction.

Grace Kelly in Rear Window (1954, Paramount)
Designer: Edith Head

Grace Kelly in To Catch a Thief (1955, Paramount)
Designer: Edith Head

The 1960's saw Head responding to the ever-changing times in a surprising fashion: she took the plunge into the outrageous, and her designs for such mid-1960's fare as What a Way to Go! (1964) with Shirley MacLaine and Love Has Many Faces (1965) with Lana Turner are eye-popping, jaw-dropping -- and not always in a good way. But they demonstrate Head's determination to remain not only relevant, but newsworthy and attention-grabbing. Much was made of the costume budgets for these two films, in particular; Lana's costumes alone were reportedly worth $1 million!

Lana Turner in Love Has Many Faces (1965, Columbia)
Designer: Edith Head


Shirley MacLaine (with Robert Mitchum) in What a Way to Go! (1964, Twentieth Century Fox)
Designer: Edith Head

In 1967, after her Paramount contract expired, Head jumped ship to Universal. Though much of her work for Universal was minor, she did manage to win one final Oscar, for The Sting (1973). In an echo of the earlier Givenchy debacle, however, she was sued by the sketch illustrator who worked on the film (Head herself didn't, or couldn't, sketch), claiming that he had, in fact, designed the costumes. This sort of controversy started Edith Head's career -- she had conned her way into Paramount's costume department by displaying a portfolio padded with sketches by her fellow art class students -- and would continue to the end. When, in the 1970's, she began holding "fashion costume shows" purporting to feature her classic film gowns, many whispered that the gowns were, in fact, reproductions, and that some weren't even originally designed by Head in the first place.

Edith Head and models at one of her costume fashion shows, 1970's

Still, when Edith Head died on October 24, 1981, she was mourned not only by Hollywood but, thanks to Head's unrelenting publicity drive, the world. Obviously, Edith Head's supporters far outnumber her detractors; and, whatever her shortcomings as a designer may have been, her massive influence and sheer force of personality are such that they override any deficincies. In any case, if the unflattering designs she created for Mary Martin, Hedy Lamarr and Claudette Colbert (three of the very few stars with whom she shared a mutual dislike) are any indication of the kind of retribution she would dish out to those who dared cross her, we'd rather stay on her good side!

Mary Martin in Love Thy Neighbor (1942)
Designer: Edith Head

Hedy Lamarr in The Strange Woman (1946, United Artists)
Designer: Edith Head

Claudette Colbert in Zaza (1939, Paramount)
Designer: Edith Head

Thank you, Poseidon3, for getting our creative juices flowing! Frankly, in spite of her legend and her undeniable longevity, we've never been a big fan of Head. (And we never thought we'd have that phrase coming out of our, er, mouth.) Her work always struck us as a little bland and a lot derivative. And yet, contradictorily, she's the woman behind some of the most iconic costumes in film history, a few of our favorites among them. In the end, we simply have to give the lady respect and credit for all that she achieved in her nearly-sixty year career. And it goes without saying that we heartily endorse the always entertaining, always educational Poseidon's Underworld. Visit him today, and tell him that Big Edie sent you.

28 comments:

  1. My God, this is the best entry EVER. I love Edith, and have her 3 divine books, but you made me think of her in an entirely different way! I LOVE how you show Bette's and Elizabeth's dresses on dress forms and voila!

    Thanks you so much for this and the delicious photos... You always make my day, but this time you made my week!

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  2. That goes double for me. What a fabulous post. Thank you.

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  3. An utterly fascinating and amazing post. Thanks, TJB!

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  4. Thank, TJB, for the lovely comments and for a truly mesmerizing post! I did want to add about how Edith was crushed when Grace Kelly chose (or perhaps the studio did the choosing for her!) Helen Rose to do her wedding gown. That was going to be the crowning flower on her cake, but was not to be. And poor Edith was still smarting over losing the Oscar for To Catch a Thief to the clothes from Love is a Many Slendored Thing. Anyway, thanks again for your shout-outs and for a compelling post. Oh, and did you notice in that clip from What a Way to Go! that my "Mystery Extra" is in almost every clip involving a party, standing between the stars upon their first entrance and even greeting them with another gentleman later!?! She was EVERYWHERE....

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  5. This is a nearly scholarly post. Thank you very much!

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  6. Genius. I wonder if she was wealthy? She certainly deserved to be.

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  7. Brilliant work, TJB!

    You've put dear Edith into perspective in a remarkable way, showing us the good, the bad and the indifferent and how that added up to becoming a Legend. I've always thought that Edith Head was slightly overrated and that she was famous for being Edith Head rather than a brilliant designer, but couldn't have articulated those doubts half as well as you've done. And I agree that her work for Grace Kelly deserved recognition.

    Can't think of a better way to cure the winter blahs
    than this brilliant post.

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  8. You've told me all I ever wanted to know about E Head - and more. I had sort of idolised her but always like it when people wobble the pedestal. Amazing where a combination of talent and pushiness can take you. Pushiness is usually nature's way of rewarding the mediocre but she was far more than that. I liked that she was kind to the stars she dressed, if not to her competitors.

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  9. Thanks for another great post!

    Interesting to see Margo Channing's dress as it was designed to be worn, not as it was worn in the film. Davis related that when it came time to shoot the scene, Head was shocked to find that the shoulder straps didn't fit (too big as I recall, but I could be mistaken).

    "Not to worry, Edith" Davis reports herself as saying, "I'll just pull them down." Hence the waaaay more glamorous "off the shoulder" look of the dress on Davis than on the dummy! (And really, wouldn't Margo have bared her shoulders to Bill at his welcome home party?)

    Now if only Head had been on set in England during the filming of the By Myself number in I Could Go On Singing, to throw a jacket over that red dress after Garland had packed on a few pounds between fittings and filming!

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  10. Ugh, can't stand this repressed dyke. I'll never forgive her for stealing the Oscar from M. Givenchy! I think I'm one of the few people on earth who hates that white tulle gown from Rear Window too. Give me Walter Plunkett (the most glamorous designer with the most unglamorous name) any day. As always though, thank you for a thorough well reasoned post, TJB!

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  11. I think your description of her as workmanlike is right on the money. I do love the ridiculous clothes in What a Way to Go, though.

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  12. another amazing post - the detail in this more than scholarly and shows enormous time and research - you should be teaching history at some outrageously expensive college -

    And - I do remember many many years ago that Edith was a frequent guest on the old Art Linkletter show - although I don't remember much of the content of her appearances - well, I guess that does date me doesn't it??

    Thanks again for all your time and effort putting this one together -
    Jon (yes, I'm still looking for the old 1957 Mark Damon mag article - I'll find it one of these days)

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  13. Joan Crawford A Biography by Bob Thomas:

    "Beserk" was a lurid tale of murder in the circus, and while it offered little to challenge Joan's dramatic talent, she was still able to display her commendable figure in a leotard as ringmistress. 'What about these?', she said, exhibiting her breasts to her producer. 'And no operations on 'em, either.' She wore her own clothes in the film - 'Save your money, Herm [the producer]; I've been hustling clothes all my life' - but she asked that Edith Head design the leotard.

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  14. Bravo TJB!

    I've been toying with the idea of purchasing the book "Edith Head: A Complete Treasury of the Fifty-Year Career of Hollywood's Greatest Costume Designer."

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  15. Oh, thank you for all of the nice comments... I appreciate them!

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  16. FANTASTIC POST...I read every word!

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  17. Amazing work........... truly virtuosic in her designs.

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  18. A truly fantabulosa post - you are a mine of information my dear, and I salute you! Jx

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  19. The glorious photo selection is enough to dazzle, but your insightful take on Head's career and talent took this to a whole other level. Thank you for this blissful post.

    It is interesting to consider the importance of drive versus talent - of which she had both, but in different degrees. I remember when Madonna and Cyndi Lauper came on the music scene at the same time, many agreed that Cyndi had the finer voice and would be the one to last. Time to strap on the Gaultier cone bra! EEE

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  20. Once again, folks, I'm thrilled by the response to this posting, particularly from those whose own work I admire so! Thank you most sincerely.

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  21. Wonderful post.

    You mention that there were whispers that the 1970s costume shows had reproductions; I wonder, then, if the dress shown as Taylor's from "A Place in the Sun" is a repro? The flowers on the bodice don't look quite so numerous or bulky in the film, but I fully admit I am no expert in this.

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  22. To that, it must be said that a lot of things factor in. A costume made for the camera, that was worn under hot lights again and again and then stored someplace amongst many others, possibly without any special care and/or being handled over and over while people sorted through racks, just may not have held up enough to look good for a fashion show 20 or 30 years later. Few, if any, people knew that once a costume was finished being used in a movie that anyone would ever care to see it again in the flesh, so to speak. That was if it wasn't recycled/altered for use in another flick as part of the grind of studio filmmaking. So faded, worn, dilapidated dresses may not have been sturdy enough or deemed appealing enough for a live fashion show.

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  23. Great Post! I am a collector of film costumes. Two costumes pictured from All About Eve and a Place in the Sun are reproductions. They came from the Edith Head collection. She used these reproductions as part of her touring exhibition in the late 70's.

    I love film costumes and I have a blog dedicated to my collection:

    http://vintagefilmpropsandcostumes.blogspot.com/

    I love all the photos in your post! Thanks!

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  24. What a fabulous post! I love it.

    I was sent the new Edith Head book before Christmas to blog about and I STILL haven't read it. Your post was a great summary and the pictures are stunning.

    Joan in that Adrian number is just wonderful xx

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  25. Hmmm. I wonder what it says about me that I recognized the Bette and Liz gowns instantly, even though the dress forms did little to show them off.

    That Adrian piece on Crawford is a stunner--I hesitate even to call it a gown. She stands in front of a window wearing it in the film, too, doesn't she? Ah, Joan. No one beat her for clothes-horsing in the 1930s--with the possible exception of Kay Francis. Constance Bennett holds her own, too, actually.

    Sigh. Glorious clothing. Thank you for this post!

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  26. For a truly intimate and revealing insider's look at Edith Head, get your hands on a copy of equally famous costume designer, Jean-Pierre Dorleac's fascinating chronicle about the last days of glamour in Hollywood, THE NAKED TRUTH at www.jean-pierredorleac.com or at www.amazon.com where there are MANY rave reviews.

    Head mentored Dorleac in the last five years of her life, giving him treasured advise and many priceless gifts that were used in his creations. One of the many articles she bestowed upon him was the elegant crystal necklace worn in the Oscar nominated (Best Costume Design) film, SOMEWHERE IN TIME. The fact filled and humorous book should be mandatory reading for anyone considering a career in fashion or design. It will not only prepare one for reality, but also inspire them to go forward. The chatty tone sets the stage for a rollicking good leisure read.

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  27. For a truly intimate and revealing insider's look at Edith Head, get your hands on a copy of equally famous costume designer, Jean-Pierre Dorleac's fascinating chronicle about the last days of glamour in Hollywood, THE NAKED TRUTH at www.jean-pierredorleac.com or at www.amazon.com where there are MANY rave reviews.

    Head mentored Dorleac in the last five years of her life, giving him treasured advise and many priceless gifts that were used in his creations. One of the many articles she bestowed upon him was the elegant crystal necklace worn in the Oscar nominated (Best Costume Design) film, SOMEWHERE IN TIME. The fact filled and humorous book should be mandatory reading for anyone considering a career in fashion or design. It will not only prepare one for reality, but also inspire them to go forward. The chatty tone sets the stage for a rollicking good leisure read.

    ReplyDelete

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